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Special releases come thick and fast these days, but Fèis Ìle bottlings still pull me in. This 2024 Bunnahabhain is a 14 year old port-cask release from Islay's annual festival. The port shows gloriously: raspberry, strawberry and dark chocolate, jammy and rich at a hefty 58.7%, with that signature coastal salt lingering through a long finish. Something a little special — and absolutely stunning.
There's something quietly rebellious about Bunnahabhain. While the rest of Islay shouts about peat, this remote distillery lets sherry and coastal character lead. The unpeated 12, their flagship, is rich and inviting: nutty dried fruit — raisins and figs — Christmas-cake spice and a whisper of coastal salt, all remarkably smooth at 46.3%. Proof Islay can do far more than peat bombs.
Nearly thirty whiskies in — ranging from £27 to over £70 — I started wondering what 'value' in a bottle of whisky really means. It's gloriously subjective, of course, but I tried to pin it down anyway, plotting quality against price to see which bottles genuinely punch above their weight and which trade on name alone. The results held a few surprises.
Bunnahabhain Stiùireadair (roughly 'stew-rah-dur') is a captivating, unpeated Islay malt whose dark glass gives nothing away. Inside is real maritime character: a briny, coastal nose smoothed by vanilla, caramel and dried fruit, a palate of salted caramel turning creamy and nutty, and a warming, sea-spray finish. Widely available at £30–40, it's distinctive, delicious and genuinely great value — a personal favourite.
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